I stumbled upon an old blog of mine--forgot all about it.
I like some of what I said then, so I am sharing it anew.
On
a good bread day, when the humidity is just right, the yeast budding
furiously and happily in their doughy world, when my hands work
unconsciously, my dough comes together after about 15 minutes of
kneading.
Fold and press, fold and press, fold and press.
An occasional turn of the dough. Fold and press. It will be ready when,
as the adage goes, it feels like a baby's bottom. It usually takes me
about 200 folds. The purists may push for 300 folds, but after 200 or
so, it feels ready. I am middle-aged, and I only know the feel of a
middle-aged woman's thigh. Enough for me.
Perhaps younger bakers yearn
for the firmness of 300 folds. Let them yearn. They have more energy,
and certainly more time.
|
Wheat grown on our classroom windowsill. |
200 folds. Each fold doubles the number of layers of dough beneath my hands.
2...4...8...
Which would you rather have, the old teaser goes, a million dollars now, or a penny doubled every day for a month?
16...32...64...128...256...512...1,024.
Each
layer makes the gluten strands stretch and layer upon itself. A network
to catch the carbon dioxide released by the yeasts busy budfucking in
the dough.
2,048....4,096...8,192...16,384...32,768...65,536...131,072.
|
Bread made by a friend, Jessica Pierce (photo by her) |
Most
of us in this part of the world do not exert a whole lot of energy.
Most of the carbon dioxide we release comes from the decomposed ferns
and trilobites and pterodactyls that we burn without a thought. Sunlight
captured 10 million years ago combusts, consumes O
2, produces CO
2.
In
the States, few folks walk anymore.
262,144...524,288...1,048,576...2,097,152....4,194,304....8,388,608
My dough doubles in size in less than two hours. The hot breath of yeasties, budding and budding and budding.
16,777,216...33,554,432...67,108,864...134,177,200...268,000,000....536,000,000
We
screw. We fuck. We get laid. We score. We pant. Sex. A commodity. An
end in itself. Few of us take the time to bud anymore. I want to make a
bud. Asexual reproduction. Proof I matter. Silly thoughts. My brow beads
with sweat. Kneading is hard work.
1,072,000,000...2,144,000,000...5,488,000,000....10,976,000,000...21,195,200,000...43,904,000,000...
|
Photo by Jessica Pierce |
The
moon is about 240,000 miles away. That's about 127, 200,00 feet. Or
about 1,524,000,000 inches. The dough now has 40 times more layers than inches to the moon. And I am not even a quarter of the way
through.
I have a 300 gallon puddle in my
backyard. It has a lot of critters in it. One large koi. 2 bream I
nabbed from a Newark park trying to catch tadpoles. Perhaps a few dozen
nymphs. A hundred thousand copepods. And hundreds of millions of
bacteria. Each critter no more aware of me than I of each of them.
87,808,000,000...175,616,000,000...351,232,000,000...702,464,000,000...1,404,928,000,000
My
head hurts from counting. Too many critters to think about. 6 million
people, give or take a million, slaughtered in Nazi concentration camps.
20 million Russians perished in the latest world war. Maybe a million
less. Maybe a million more.
2,809,856,000,000...no more counting--sweat in my eyes.
|
Blueberries |
I
say a prayer when I toss my yeast down the drain after they convert raw
honey and blueberries into a lovely blueberry mel that makes my legs
wobble. Most are dormant from exhaustion,
poisoned by the alcoholic milieu they created.
I doubt they hear my prayer. Not sure anyone does.
The
yeast in my dough are less lucky--they are living and breathing, and
they will be baked.
While I no longer ponder their sentience, I no longer question their
desire either. I hear the burbling of carbon dioxide gassing out the carboy as the yeast bud and bud and bud to exhaustion.
I feel
most alive when my lifelong love and I share breath and energy. Get the
cortex out of the way. The cortex developed late in the scheme of
evolution. The medulla is where we fall in love.
We try to
imagine the pain of millions dead. The challenge is to feel the
pain of one creature dying.
I recoil at the thought of millions
slaughtered. I get real quiet when I remember the slow death of my
mother. Millions matter, of course, but only matter if I have the
courage to recall my mother's strength. "We are born to die," she said.
Maybe.
Just not so slowly. Not so painfully. Not so grotesquesly.
Fold and press and fold and press.
I
have a recipe for bread from an ancient Yugoslovian woman. I know her
grand-daughter. I taught her grand-daughter a little bit about medicine.
Her
grand-daughter knows I love bread. Her grand-daughter is not so far
removed from her grandmother's world that she does not recognize a wheat
berry. She gave me her grandmother's recipe for potato bread.
"Why potato bread?" I asked. Dr. Elana bowed her head
ever so slightly--she still had an old world respect for her teachers.
"Because," she explained, "we had no grain during the war. We were
starving."
Fold and press and fold and press.
"We were starving" before she was even born, and she still feels the pangs.
Fold and press and fold and press.
Almost
done. I slap the dough. Almost right. It is warming up from the life
inside.
Americans confuse sensuality and sexuality because we cannot see
that the two cannot be separated. We pretend otherwise at our peril. We
blame the Puritans.
I'd bet my loaf of bread that Puritans knew how to
make love better than most of us. I know they could make bread better
than us. Too easy to blame the Puritans.
I fold again. The dough snaps. The dough is ready.
I
slap the dough. I like the sound. I slap it again. Millions and
millions of layers. A fine net of gluten strands ready to catch the
breaths of the jubilant yeast madly reproducing, respiring, realizing.
This will be a good loaf. You can know before the first rise.
A
prayer before I thrust the dough into the oven hours later. The yeast
die noiselessly, and (good western man I am), without awareness.
But not without desire.